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V-Core 4.0
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BUild GUide
MechanicalElectronicsFirmware
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Hybrid upgradeIdex upgradeRAT PACKOrbiter v2 Smart Sensor
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startConfiguration
Sanity checks
X steppers Y steppersZ steppersEndstopsHome sequenceBuild plate preparationHotend + fansPerformance mode
Calibration
Beacon set-upGantry twistRealtime analysisBelt TensionInput shapperVAOC (IDEX ONLY)Z endstop (IDEX ONLY)SKEW
Operation & Slicer
obtaining a slicerslicer configurationhow to sliceIDEX ModesSlice dual materialcopy + mirror mode

V-Core 4 Commissioning Guide

Let's get your v-core 4 moving!

This guide is meant to assist you in getting started with your freshly assembled standard V-Core 4 Kit. The entire mechanical and electronics assemblies must have been completed before. There are many ways of commissioning a 3D printer, but this guide is optimised for the V-Core 4. It aims to be the easiest, and most simple way to get your machine up and running.
(If you have not finished your mechanical assembly, click the button below)

Commissioning - ”Bring (something newly produced) into working condition.” This guide is meant to help everyone bring their newly built machine into working condition, not to fully tune and extract the full performance of the machine.

V-Core 4 mechanical assembly

After completing the mechanical assembly, Let's go!

The buttons below will redirect you to each of the main sections of the commissioning guide.

ConfigurationSanity checksCalibrationOperation & Slicer

Configuration

Click on your machine variant to show the steps to follow.

Core XY

Hybrid

Idex

Prepare RatOs

1. Download the latest RatOS release on the button below or from GitHub (look for the RatOS-*.img.xz file under the Assets dropdown).
2. Use a tool like SDcard Formatter to prepare the SD card before flashing.
3. Write the image to a 16GB or larger SD card using Balena Etcher.

Download RatOS

Step 1 - Network connectivity

1. Insert the flashed SD card into the raspberry pi and power the machine on.
2.
Wait for the RatOS hotspot to appear on your control device (computer, tablet, or smartphone). this may take a few minutes as the raspberry pi is flashing the new firmware.
2.1 If the RatOS hotspot asks for a password, it is: "raspberry"
3. Connect to the hotspot and access the machine via a web browser at ratos.local.
4. On the dashboard, there will be an error, ignore it. It's only klipper complaining that there is no configuration.
4. Open the configurator (1) from the left-side menu and click on Setup Wizard (2).
5. Select your Wi-Fi network (3), enter the password (4), and click "Submit" (5).
5.1 If you wifi is not showing, click "show hidden access points" or just reebot the machine.
6. Choose your printer hostname (6), then click "Save and Connect" (7).

Some browsers may not have localhost domains acces enabled, if you have trouble connecting to "ratos.local", ensure your browser allows connection to a localhost domain.

Step 2 - Updates

Follow the steps carefully; any misstep could damage the configurator and require re-flashing the Raspberry Pi.
1.
The machine will reboot after the wifi setup.
2. Connect your control device (computer, tablet, or smartphone) to the same Wi-Fi network as your V-Core 4.
3. Enter the hostname (e.g., myvc4.local) in your web browser.
4. Navigate to 'Machine' (8) in the left-side menu.
5. Locate the update window and refresh it (9); options may take some time to appear.
6. Update RatOS packages by clicking the Update button (10) to prepare for third-party software changes. Wait for the machine to reboot, meaning the instalation was successful. Refresh the webpage (press f5)
7. Update the 'RatOS-Configurator' packages (11). Wait for the machine to reboot, meaning the instalation was successful. Refresh the webpage (press f5)
8. Click 'Update All Components' (12) at the bottom of the updater panel. Wait for the machine to reboot, meaning the instalation was successful. Refresh the webpage (press f5)

If any of the packages appear "invalid" just refresh the browser page, it may be loading.

INITIAL Configuration for coreXY

This chapter is specifically intended for the Core XY configuration.

Step 1 - Printer selection

1. Open the configurator (1) from the left-side menu.
2. Go to the Setup Wizard (2).
3. In the Printer Selection menu (3), choose the Core XY (4) variant that matches your machine's size.

Follow the rest of the configurator to choose and flash your controller and toolboard, as well as select the appropriate hardware. During the configurator process, the standard V-Core 4 components are pre-selected. Unless your machine is not a standard kit, you should not need to change any parameters.

INITIAL Configuration for Hybrid

This chapter is specifically intended for the Hybrid configuration.

Step 1 - Printer selection

1. Open the configurator (1) from the left-side menu.
2. Go to the Setup Wizard (2).
3. In the Printer Selection menu (3), choose the Hybrid (4) variant that matches your machine's size.

Follow the rest of the configurator to choose and flash your controller and toolboard, as well as select the appropriate hardware. During the configurator process, the standard V-Core 4 components are pre-selected. Unless your machine is not a standard kit, you should not need to change any parameters.

INITIAL Configuration for IDEX

This chapter is specifically intended for the IDEX configuration. It will cover the VAOC configuration and the initial steps for setting up and operating the IDEX machine. We are working on automating this process.
If you are upgrading from a hybrid machine, pre-configured, disable performance mode in the RatOS configurator.

Step 1 - Printer selection

1. Open the configurator (1) from the left-side menu.
2. Go to the Setup Wizard (2).
3. In the Printer Selection menu (3), choose the Idex (4) variant that matches your machine's size.

Follow the rest of the configurator to choose and flash your controller and toolboard, as well as select the appropriate hardware. During the configurator process, the standard V-Core 4 components are pre-selected. Unless your machine is not a standard kit, you should not need to change any parameters.

Step 2 - Configure the Z Endstop and VAOC LED

Navigate to machine tab (1) and click on the printer.cfg (2) file and scroll to the bottom. This is where you should insert any custom modifications.

At this point, add the Z-endstop and VAOC LED configurations. We are working on automating this step in the near future, similar to the rest of the RatOS configurator.
‍
1. Copy and paste the code lines below into the printer.cfg file. Be sure to place them at the end of the file, but before the SAVE_CONFIG section.
Any modifications made below this line will be overwritten, which could result in an incorrect configuration.

[z_offset_probe]
pin: ^PG10                   # probe trigger pin
z_offset: -7                 # probe height, used to limit the probe z-move
y_offset: 0                  # probe y-offset, measured from the camera centre
x_offset: 37.5               # probe x-offset, measured from the camera centre
speed: 10                    # probe speed  
samples: 3                   # number of samples  
sample_retract_dist: 5
lift_speed: 10.0
samples_result: median
samples_tolerance: 0.2
samples_tolerance_retries: 5

[neopixel vaoc_led]
pin: PB0
chain_count: 6
color_order: GRB

[heater_fan vaoc_fan]
pin: PD13
heater: heater_bed
fan_speed: 1.0
heater_temp: 50

2. Click the "SAVE & RESTART" button on the top right of the window. The machine will then restart with the new parameters applied.

Step 3 - Configure the VAOC camera

Next, navigate to the Machine tab (1) and open the Crowsnest configuration file crowsnest.cfg (2) by clicking on the filename.

Inside the crowsnest.conf file (3) locathe the [crowsnest] and [cam1] sections (4).

Replace the [crowsnext] section and the [cam 1] section with the code below:

[crowsnest]
log_path: /home/pi/printer_data/logs/crowsnest.log
log_level: verbose
delete_log: false
no_proxy: false‍

[cam 1]
mode: camera-streamer
enable_rtsp: false
rtsp_port: 8554
port: 8080
device: /dev/video0
resolution: 1920x1080
max_fps: 30   

Click the "SAVE & RESTART" button on the top right of the window. The machine will then restart with the new parameters applied.

Open the VAOC tab on the left menu to check if there is image.

🛈 No VAOC image, black screen. HELP!

▼

VAOC interface shows no image.

If the VAOC camera does not display an image, there are two primary causes to investigate:
‍
‍Crowsnest Configuration Issues:
The configuration file may contain an error, such as a typo or incorrect formatting. Review the file carefully to ensure it is correctly configured.
‍
‍Connection Issues:
The camera may not be properly connected. Check both the USB connection to the Raspberry Pi and the PCB camera connector.Additionally, inspect the PCB ribbon cable to ensure it is securely attached and undamaged.

As a troubleshooting step, try connecting the camera via USB to a computer to verify if it functions correctly.

Sanity checks

Click on your machine variant to show the steps to follow.

Core XY

Hybrid

Idex

sanity checks - Core XY + hybrid

sanity checks - IDEX

Before getting started with your journey, it’s important to get familiarized with some terms:
T0 - Toolhead
X-axis - left to right direction
Y-axis - front to back direction
‍stepper_X - Left Stepper [L]
‍stepper_Y- Right stepper [R]
‍
Please note: At this point the hybrid steppers will be ignored as the top Y belts should only be installed later in the guide.


T0 - Left toolhead
‍T1 - Right toolhead
X-axis - left to right direction
Y-axis - front to back direction
‍stepper_X - left toolhead X stepper
‍Dual_carriage - right toolhead X stepper or DC stepper
‍VAOC - Visually assisted offset calibration
Z endstop -
The chicago bolt on the VAOC, where the nozzles probes.

Please note: At this point the hybrid Top Y belts should have been installed - Follow these steps to install them.

X-axis direction (Core XY + hybrid)

1. Run the following command in your console:
M18
2. Move the toolhead manually to the middle of the build plate.
‍
3. Run the following command in your console:SET_CENTER_KINEMATIC_POSITION 
4. Use the mainsail buttons to move the toolhead 10mm to the left and right, ensuring it is moving in the right direction.

‍5. If the X-axis is moving in the expected direction, restart klipper and you are done, please proceed to the next sanity check.
5.1
If the toolhead moved but in the wrong direction. Navigate to the printer.cfg file and locate the [stepper_x] section. You need to invert the direction pin, by adding or removing "!" in front of the "dir" pin label, as shown below.

🛈 The toolhead moved in the wrong direction. HELP

▼

the toolhead moved in the wrong direction

If your toolhead moved in the Y direction while commanding it to move in the X direction, it means that either the stepper motors' directions are swapped or the cable connectors are swapped between stepper L and stepper R.
‍
Move the toolhead left and right using the Mainsail controller. Observe the actual movement of the toolhead and compare it to the chart below. If your movement pattern does not match any of the suggested options, it indicates that the stepper motor connectors are swapped. In this case, please disconnect the machine from the mains power and swap the L and R stepper motor connectors on the Octopus board. Once the toolhead movement matches one of the options in the chart, you will need to invert the direction of the indicated stepper by following step 5.

If you have any questions about the stepper connections on the octopus board:
For CoreXY- Check the wiring guide here.
For Hybrid - Check the wiring guide here.

6. Click "SAVE & RESTART" at the top right of the print.cfg page.
‍
7. Repeat steps 1 to 4 to ensure the toolhead is moving in the right X direction.

X-axis direction (IDEX)

1. Run the following command in your console:
M18
2. Move the toolheads manually to the middle of the build plate (leaving at least 100mm of spacing between them).
‍
3. Run the following command in your console:SET_CENTER_KINEMATIC_POSITION 
4. Run the following command in your console, to activate T0:SET_DUAL_CARRIAGE CARRIAGE=0
5. Use the mainsail buttons to move T0 10mm to the left and right, ensuring it is moving in the right direction.

‍5. If the T0 X-axis is moving in the expected direction, skip to step 7.
‍
5.1 If the toolhead moved but in the wrong direction. Navigate to the printer.cfg file and locate the [stepper_x] section. You need to invert the direction pin, by adding or removing ! in front of the "dir" pin label, as shown below.

🛈 The wrong toolhead moved. HELP

▼

the wrong toolhead moved

If the incorrect toolhead moved, it means the X stepper and DC stepper connectors on the Octopus board are swapped. Disconnect the machine from power and swap the connectors. Check the wiring diagram here.

6. Click "SAVE & RESTART" at the top right of the print.cfg page.
‍
7. Run the following command in your console, to activate T1:SET_DUAL_CARRIAGE CARRIAGE=1
8. Select T1 by clicking on the "T1" button in the "EXTRUDER" window (see image above), then use the mainsail buttons to move T1 10mm to the left and right, ensuring it is moving in the right direction.

9. If the T1 X-axis is moving in the expected direction, this chapter is complete!
‍
If the toolhead moved but in the wrong direction. Navigate to the printer.cfg file and locate the [dual_carriage] section. You need to invert the direction pin, by adding or removing ! in front of the "dir" pin label, as shown below.  

Y -axis direction (Core XY + hybrid)

1. Run the following command in your console:
M18
2. Move the toolhead manually to the middle of the build plate.

3. Run the following command in your console: SET_CENTER_KINEMATIC_POSITION
4.
Use the mainsail buttons to move the toolhead 10mm to the front and back, ensuring it is moving in the right direction.

5. If the Y-axis is moving in the expected direction, restart klipper and you are done, please proceed to the next sanity check.
5.1
If the toolhead moved but in the wrong direction. Navigate to the printer.cfg file and locate the [stepper_Y] section or [stepper_X1] section if you are building an hybrid machine.
You need to invert the direction pin, by adding or removing ! in front of the "dir" pin label, as shown below.

🛈 The toolhead moved in the wrong direction. HELP

▼

the toolhead moved in the wrong direction

If your toolhead moved in the Y direction while commanding it to move in the X direction, it means that either the stepper motors' directions are swapped or the cable connectors are swapped between stepper L and stepper R.
‍
Move the toolhead left and right using the Mainsail controller. Observe the actual movement of the toolhead and compare it to the chart below. If your movement pattern does not match any of the suggested options, it indicates that the stepper motor connectors are swapped. In this case, please disconnect the machine from the mains power and swap the L and R stepper motor connectors on the Octopus board. Once the toolhead movement matches one of the options in the chart, you will need to invert the direction of the indicated stepper by following step 5.

If you have any questions about the stepper connections on the octopus board:
For CoreXY- Check the wiring guide here.
For Hybrid - Check the wiring guide here.

6. Click "SAVE & RESTART" at the top right of the print.cfg page.
‍
7. Repeat steps 1 to 4 to ensure the toolhead is moving in the right Y direction.

Y -axis direction (idex)

1. Run the following command in your console:
M18
2. Move the toolhead manually to the middle of the build plate (leaving at least 100mm of spacing between them).

3. Run the following command in your console: SET_CENTER_KINEMATIC_POSITION
4.
Select the 1mm square (marked in orange) and move the Y axis in a very small amount, 2-3mm maximum. If any of the Y steppers are inverted, the machine can get damaged with excessive move distances.

5. If the Y-axis is moving in the expected direction, restart klipper and you are done, please proceed to the next sanity check.
5.1
If the gantry moved but in the wrong direction. Navigate to the printer.cfg file and locate the [stepper_Y] and [stepper_Y1] sections. You need to invert the direction pin on both steppers, by adding or removing ! in front of the "dir" pin label, as shown below.

🛈 The gantry is twisting when moving the Y-axis. HELP

▼

The gantry is twisting when moving the Y-axis

If the gantry twists when moving the Y-axis, it indicates that one of the Y stepper motors is inverted. You will need to determine whether the Y stepper or the Y1 stepper is inverted and take appropriate action. This can be resolved by inverting the direction pin of only one Y stepper, as explained above.

6. Click "SAVE & RESTART" at the top right of the print.cfg page.
‍
7. Repeat steps 1 to 4 to ensure the toolhead is moving in the right Y direction.

Z Stepper motor directions

1. Run the following command in your console:
M18
2.
Lower the Z arms by 10 - 20mm by hand, rotating the lead screws slowly.

3.
Run the following command in your console:
STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_z
4. Observe which lead screw moves after running the command.

5. Only the Z stepper motor should move. If any other stepper motor moves, please note which one it is. After mapping the tree, we will swap the stepper connectors on the Octopus board accordingly.

6.
Run the following command in your console and take note of which Z stepper moved. Only Stepper Z1 should move.
STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_z1
7. Run the following command in your console and take note of which Z stepper moved. Only Stepper Z2 should move.
STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_z2‍
8. If the correct Z stepper motor moves as commanded, , please proceed to the next sanity check, as your Z-axis is ready for action. If not, refer to the notes you took earlier and swap the connectors on the Octopus board accordingly. Click here to view the Z stepper wiring diagram.

9. Run the following command in your console:
M18
10. Lower the Z arms by 10 - 20mm by hand, rotating the lead screws slowly.

11. Use the mainsail buttons to move the bed 10mm up and down.
Carefully observe the movement of each Z arm. If any of them is moving in the wrong direction, you will need to remove the "!" before the direction pin in the printer.cfg file, as the picture below shows:

Endstops check  (Core XY + hybrid)

1. Run the following command in your console:
M18
2. Move the toolhead (or toolheads in case of the idex) to the middle of the build plate by hand.
‍
3. Go to the machine tab, find the endstops box at the lower right of the window. Hit the refresh button on the right and check if all endstops show as OPEN.

4. Manually press the endstops while hitting the refresh button, they should show TRIGGERED when pressed while refreshing. If an endstop doesn’t behave properly, it could mean a wiring problem. (Ignore the endstop Z as it represents the beacon)
‍
PRO TIP: If the machine is positioned far from your computer, manually move the toolhead until it contacts the endstop to trigger it.

Endstops check  (IDEX)

1. Run the following command in your console:
M18
2. Move the toolheads to the middle of the build plate by hand.
‍
3. Go to the machine tab, find the endstops box at the lower right of the window. Hit the refresh button on the right and check if all endstops show as OPEN.

4. Manually press the endstops while hitting the refresh button, they should show TRIGGERED when pressed while refreshing. If an endstop doesn’t behave properly, it could mean a wiring problem. (Ignore the endstop Z as it represents the beacon)
‍
PRO TIP: If the machine is positioned far from your computer, manually move the toolhead until it contacts the endstop to trigger it.

5. Run the following command in your console, to check if the Z endstop on VAOC is working properly:
Z_OFFSET_QUERY_PROBE

🛈 Endstop isn't working properly. HELP

▼

One or more endstops aren't working as expected

If one or more endstops are not functioning correctly, there are several ways to diagnose the issue. The problem generally comes from one of three possibilities: an incorrect port connection, a faulty endstop, or a wiring issue.
We recommend the following troubleshooting steps:
‍
1) Swap the connector of the non-working endstop with one that is working on the Octopus board. This will help determine if the issue follows the endstop to the new port or remains with the original Octopus port. If the problem stays on the same port, it could indicate that the connector is incorrectly placed on the Octopus board or there is a configuration mismatch. Please verify that the connector matches the port specified in the RatOS configurator and wiring guide.
‍
2) Replace only the endstop at the end of the wire. If this resolves the issue, the endstop itself may be damaged.
‍
3) Use a multimeter to check the continuity of the wiring. If there is no continuity between the crimps on the connectors, it may indicate a faulty wire that needs to be replaced.

Home sequence

Provided that the machine has successfully passed all sanity checks, there should be no reason for the homing sequence to fail. As a standard precaution, it is recommended to keep your finger positioned above the 'Emergency Stop' button to quickly address any unexpected behavior during the process.

1. Run the following command:
BEACON_INITIAL_CALIBRATION
The machine will home all axis and prepare the beacon. It will home your printer and run the calibration fully
automated.
This command can throw a tolerance error, in this case just repeat it until the command gets successfully completed. For safety and peace of mind, the LED will turn on as soon as the contact system determines it has a strong enough signal for detection. It should normally turn on up to 5-10mm in advance of the metal target, allowing enough time to manually e-stop the machine if necessary.

Build plate peparation

Note: The bed heater and surface magnetic pad should not have been installed before this chapter. In the following steps, we will verify whether the bed plate is ready to proceed.

1. It's normal to have the bed tilted after assembly. Insert "M18" on the Console, this will disable the stepper motors.

2. Manually adjust each lead screw by rotating it to achieve a roughly leveled bed. Precision is not required at this stage, as the machine will refine the leveling process later.
‍
3. Move the toolhead to each designated Z position and make the necessary adjustments to ensure the nozzle is approximately 5mm from the bed. You may use the beacon's red light as a reference, adjusting until the light activates.

‍4. Now Home the machine and perform a Z-Tilt calibration, this can be found on the dashboard page.

5. Proceede by clicking on the home icon inside the "HeightMap" tab. Once the printer has homed, click calibration and provide a name for this mesh as shown. RatOS will then create an initial bed mesh.

6. Inspect your mesh, to get a realistic analysis please check the “scale gradient” and slide the “scale Z-max” all the way to the right. If your mesh looks flat like the image below, this chapter is compete!

7. If your bed mesh is not flat, and appears tilted or twisted (similar to the image below), you will need to verify the alignment and squareness of your frame.

8. The image below illustrates a bed mesh with a twist. Twisted meshes are a symptom of a non-squared frame. You will observe a peak or a depression on point C or D,

9. Identify the peak in height, indicated by the blue arrow in the bed mesh.
‍
10. Adjust point C by loosening the highlighted quick connectors. (only C' and D' can be adjusted. Do not attempt to adjust A or B)
‍
11. Gently tap the bottom extrusion to lower the peak.
‍
12. Re-tighten the quick connectors and perfome a Z-Tilt calibration.

13. Run another bed mesh scan to check if the peak is resolved. If there is a depression instead of a peak, push the extrusion downward instead.
‍
14. Make small adjustments in each iteration until the bed mesh is flat.

15. Unplug your machine from the electricity, turn the power off!
‍
16. Apply the heater pad carefully, as it cannot be removed or repositioned once placed. Do not attempt to move or remove it after any part has adhered.
‍
17. Peel back about one inch of the protective sheet from one side.
‍
18. Align the heater pad centrally on the bottom of the aluminum bed and press down to secure the edge.
‍
19. Gradually peel the protective sheet while adhering the heater pad to the bed. Use a flat plastic tool (e.g., an old credit card) to ensure full adhesion and remove any air bubbles.

20. Using the same method, apply the magnetic surface to the top surface of the bed and install it on the V-Core 4.

21. The flexplate surface may retain impurities from manufacturing, shipping or handling, so washing it with warm water and soap is recommended before the first use. Make sure you dry it with a microfiber cloth to avoid leaving residues of whatever material you may use to dry it, regular kitchen cloths or even paper towels are not recommended.
‍
A dirty build plate will lead to adhesion issues that might be confused with first layer squish/ Z offset calibration problems. The included textured PEI Flexplate doesn't require any type of adhesive, it’s a ready-to-print surface on its own. Regularly wipe your PEI surface down with 70-91% isopropyl alcohol to ensure any grease, or other residues, that may have accumulated on it are removed. This will help increase your surface adhesion greatly.

Bed wiring

1. After placing the bed assembly on the Z arms again, wire the bed wires as the following image shows:
Insert the bed wires through the colar on the electronics panel.

Route the bed thermistor cable as shown.

‍2. Complete the wiring connections for the bed heater, follow here.

3. Close the electronics enclosure using 4 M3x6mm Countersink Screws.

bed pid

PID stands for proportional integral derivative and it aims at making the heating process more efficient and consistent. Efficiency is important during heating to consume less energy, consistency is key for print quality. A badly tuned heating process looks like the graph below, where the controller can’t stabilise the temperature properly.

1. To perform a bed PID calibration, locate the "Calibration" window.
2. Click on the "PID CALIBRATE BED" button (orange square).
3. Select an average temperature at which you expect to print most often. A good starting point is 60ºC for PLA, 80ºC for PETG, and 110ºC for ABS/ASA. Click "SEND" and wait for the calibration to complete.

4. Once the calibration is finished, go to the console and type:
SAVE_CONFIG‍‍Klipper will restart itself with the new PID values saved to the configuration.

Hotend + fans checks  (Core XY + hybrid)

1. In the "Temperatures" window. set the "Extruder" to 80ºC, and check if its thermistor reading is increasing and the 4010 hotend cooling fan is spinning.
If the hotend cooling fan doesn't turn on, you'll need to check the wiring connections and toolboard connector - more here.

2. Turn on the "Fan" at 40% to test if it is functioning properly (for more information on the 4028 fan, click here). You can find the fan control toggle under the "Miscellaneous" window in Mainsail.

🛈 The 4028 fan is not functioning correctly. HELP

▼

the 4028 doesn't turn on

If the 4028 won't turn on, go back to the RatOS configurator, hardware selection tab and check if every component is correctly configured. This fan should be selected as a PWM 4pin fan as the image below shows:

If everything is configured correctly, you should check the wiring connections. Ensure that the 12V jumper is set correctly (here). The most likely issue is that the fan is not receiving power, possibly due to problems with the +12V and GND wires. Inspect the crimps on both the Octopus connector and the small Molex connector. You can use a multimeter to check for continuity.

the 4028 is stuck at 100%

If the 4028 fan is stuck at 100%, it may indicate a faulty PWM connection to the Octopus board. Inspect the crimps on the PWM wire at both the toolboard and the small Molex connector.

‍3. In the dashboard, find the calibration window. Perform a PID calibration for the hotend. Type 0 for Toolhead, then insert the temperature at wich you most expect to print at, lastly click "SEND"
We recommend: 220ºC calibration for mostly PLA prints, 240ºC calibration for mostly PETG prints and 270ºC calibration for mostly ABS or ASA prints.

4. Once the calibration is complete, a message will appear in the console. Click "SAVE CONFIG" in the top-right corner of the screen, and the machine will reboot with the new default values.

Hotend + fans checks  (Idex)

1. In the "Temperatures" window. set the "Extruder" to 80ºC, and check if its thermistor reading is increasing and the T0 4010 hotend cooling fan is spinning.
If the hotend cooling fan doesn't turn on, you'll need to check the wiring connections and toolboard connector - more here.

2. Repeat the previous step for Extruder1 (T1).

3.
Turn on the "Fan" at 40% to test if it is functioning properly (for more information on the 4028 fan, click here). You can find the fan control toggle under the "Miscellaneous" window in Mainsail. Repeat for the part fan T1.

🛈 The 4028 fan is not functioning correctly. HELP

▼

the 4028 doesn't turn on

If the 4028 won't turn on, go back to the RatOS configurator, hardware selection tab and check if every component is correctly configured. This fan should be selected as a PWM 4pin fan as the image below shows:

If everything is configured correctly, you should check the wiring connections. Ensure that the 12V jumper is set correctly (here). The most likely issue is that the fan is not receiving power, possibly due to problems with the +12V and GND wires. Inspect the crimps on both the Octopus connector and the small Molex connector. You can use a multimeter to check for continuity.

the 4028 is stuck at 100%

If the 4028 fan is stuck at 100%, it may indicate a faulty PWM connection to the Octopus board. Inspect the crimps on the PWM wire at both the Octopus board and the small Molex connector.

‍3. In the dashboard, find the calibration window. Perform a PID calibration for the hotend. Type 0 for Toolhead, then insert the temperature at wich you most expect to print at, lastly click "SEND"
We recommend: 220ºC calibration for mostly PLA prints, 240ºC calibration for mostly PETG prints and 270ºC calibration for mostly ABS or ASA prints.

4. Once the calibration is complete, a message will appear in the console. Click "SAVE CONFIG" in the top-right corner of the screen, and the machine will reboot with the new default values.

5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 to perfome a PID calibration for T1, type 1 for Toolhead 1.

Switch to performance mode

After validating that the machine works properly, change the configuration to performance mode. This will boost your speed and increase accuracy. Ensure the electronics enclosure fan is working (it only spins when the steppers are moving).

1. Navigate to the configurator.

2. Then to the Setup Wizard.

3. Select the Hardware tab

4. Scroll down and activate the performance mode.

5. Scroll further down and click "Next" Then, click "Confirm And Save".

calibration

With the machine confirmed to be in optimal working condition, we can now proceed with calibration!

Click on your machine variant to show the steps to follow.

Core XY

Hybrid

Idex

Beacon set-up

Ratos comes with a fully automated beacon model and temperature offset calibration. For further information click here.
‍

⚠️The extruder and hot end must be clear of filament. Make sure to remove the filament; otherwise, the machine won't be able to accurately perform this calibration.⚠️
‍
1. Heat the nozzles to 280ºC and tighten them if you didn't already. Be carefull as the hotend is very hot and you can easily burn yourself. Overtightning the nozzle can result in permanant damage. Phaetus recommends 2.5Nm of torque when hot tightening the Rapido 2 noozle.

2. Install the flex plate.
‍
3. Run the following command:
BEACON_RATOS_CALIBRATE

🛈 ERROR - Probe sample exceed sample_tolerance HELP

▼

If you got the "probe sample exceed sample_tolerance" during the beacon calibration, fear not!

Here are a few potential fixes for the issue:
1) Loose noozle. Hot tighten the noozle as mentioned here.
2) Ensure the toolhead has no excessive play. Attempt to rotate it to check for any loose screws on the rail or carriage plate.
3) Verify that the beacon is securely attached.
4) Verify that the Z arm screws are secure and sturdy.
5) Ensure that the Z stepper motor couplers are tightly secured.

This issue mostly comes down to assembly issues, if none of the above sugestions fixed your issue, triple check your machine, something might be loose.

Gantry twist (Core XY + hybrid)

Gantry twist significantly reduces V-Core 4 performance by introducing unwanted drag into the system. This results in poor belt tensioning and Input Shaper graphs, ultimately leading to a prolonged and frustrating process of identifying the underlying causes of the machine's suboptimal performance.
In most cases, this issue is too subtle to be detected by the naked eye. Please follow the steps below to ensure your machine is properly prepared for printing.

⚠️WARNING!

Before beginning this chapter, it is crucial to ensure that the gantry moves smoothly without the belts, and that both joiners on the gantry make contact with the stepper motor cages simultaneously. If this step is not properly completed, this chapter will not be effective. If you are uncertain, take your time to remove the belts from the machine and square the gantry as outlined in the assembly guide (check here).

1. Run the following command in your console:
M18‍
2. Slowly move the toolhead to the center of the machine, then slide the gantry fully to the back until the joiners make contact with the stepper motor cages.

3. Using your hands, squeeze the gantry joiners against the stepper motor cages. There should be no play between them, and the goal is to ensure you cannot squeeze the joiners further. Often, one of the joiners will be tightly compressed, while the other may have some play. Gently press both joiners against the stepper motor cages and feel for any movement. It is important to identify which joiner has play against the stepper motor cage.

(The idlers will make contact before the plates collide, and this is perfectly fine. The idlers provide enough support and accuracy to correctly align the gantry.)

4. Identify the joiner that is not making contact with the stepper motor plate.

5. Loosen the set screw on the tensioner blocks before adjusting the belt tension.
‍
6. Loosen the belt tensioner slightly until the joiner makes contact. Loosening the tensioner moves the joiner toward the back of the machine. Tightening the tensioner moves the joiner toward the front of the machine.
‍
7. Make small adjustments until the joiner is properly aligned.

8. This calibration process involves some trial and error. Adjust the belt tension as needed to ensure that both joiners make contact with the stepper motor plates simultaneously.
‍
9.  Tighten the set screws on the tensioner body once you have finished.

Gantry twist (idex)

Gantry twist significantly reduces V-Core 4 performance by introducing unwanted drag into the system. This results in poor belt tensioning and Input Shaper graphs, ultimately leading to a prolonged and frustrating process of identifying the underlying causes of the machine's suboptimal performance.
In most cases, this issue is too subtle to be detected by the naked eye. Please follow the steps below to ensure your machine is properly prepared for printing.

⚠️WARNING!

Before beginning this chapter, it is crucial to ensure that the gantry moves smoothly without the belts, and that both joiners on the gantry make contact with the stepper motor cages simultaneously. If this step is not properly completed, this chapter will not be effective. If you are uncertain, take your time to remove the belts from the machine and square the gantry as outlined in the assembly guide (check here).

1. Run the following command in your console:
M18‍
2. Remove the top Y belts. (Yes, it's necessary to achieve optimal performance)
‍
3. Slowly move the toolheads to the center of the machine, then slide the gantry fully to the back until the joiners make contact with the stepper motor cages.

4. Using your hands, squeeze the gantry joiners against the stepper motor cages. There should be no play between them, and the goal is to ensure you cannot squeeze the joiners further. Often, one of the joiners will be tightly compressed, while the other may have some play. Gently press both joiners against the stepper motor cages and feel for any movement. It is important to identify which joiner has play against the stepper motor cage.

(The idlers will make contact before the plates collide, and this is perfectly fine. The idlers provide enough support and accuracy to correctly align the gantry.)

4. Identify the joiner that is not making contact with the stepper motor plate.

5.
Loosen the set screw on the tensioner blocks before adjusting the belt tension.
‍
6.
Loosen the belt tensioner slightly until the joiner makes contact. Loosening the tensioner moves the joiner toward the back of the machine. Tightening the tensioner moves the joiner toward the front of the machine.
‍
7.
Make small adjustments until the joiner is properly aligned.

8. This calibration process involves some trial and error. Adjust the belt tension as needed to ensure that both joiners make contact with the stepper motor plates simultaneously.
‍
9.  
Tighten the set screws on the tensioner body once you have finished.

10. Reinstall the top Y belts and repeat steps 3 to 9, this time ensuring that the top Y belts are properly tensioned to maintain correct gantry alignment. To achieve this, repeat the steps above for the two top Y belt tensioners.

Ressonance analysis

The real-time analysis tool enables real-time resonance analysis of your printer. This functionality allows you to set the printer to resonate at a specific frequency and direction, facilitating a detailed mechanical assessment. With this tool, you can more effectively diagnose potential mechanical issues within the machine. Find more detailed information about this tool here.

The following chapters will cover belt tension calibration and Input Shaper. During these stages, you can utilize the resonance analysis tool to troubleshoot and diagnose any mechanical issues with your machine.

1. Click on the Real-Time Analysis button (1) in the left menu.
‍
2. Select the Accelerometer (2).
‍
3. If using an IDEX machine, choose the toolhead (3), either T0 or T1.
‍
4. Click Start (4) to activate the accelerometer readings.
‍
5. Select the resonance direction (5):
5.1 "Oscillate X" for debugging an X-axis Input Shaper spike or noise.
5.2 "Oscillate Y" for debugging an Y-axis Input Shaper spike or noise.
5.3 "Oscillate X-Y" for diagnosing resonance in the lower belt line inside the belt graph.
5.4 "Oscillate X+Y" for analyzing resonance in the top belt line inside the belt graph.
‍
6. Choose the Oscillation Frequency (6) at which you want the machine to resonate.

Belt tension

Please note: At this point the hybrid steppers will be ignored as the top Y belts should only be installed later in the guide.

‍The belt tension graphs are meant to help you troubleshoot your machine assembly, do not look at it as a tunning tool, it's very easy to over-obsess with them. It's impossible to cover every scenario and diagnose every belt graph artefact, this is a very complex and sensitive subject, about which we are still exploring and learning, please feel free to submit your feedback in our Discord community.
‍
Also check out the amazing work by the klippain shaketune team here!
‍

Ensure your machine build is finished, all the wirings are clean and there are no loose parts, the machine must be placed on a sturdy surface and there is nothing on top or against the machine. Don't touch the machine during vibration analysis.
‍
It's important to clarify this procedure focused on relative belt tension, meaning it will show you if both belts have the same tension. This is crucial for a smooth motion system.
‍
Ideally, the belt graph for a V-Core 4 would have smooth lines with 2 peaks, as shown below:

1. To perform a belt tensions graph, just click on the designated button inside the "SCRIPTS" window.

2. You must now analyse your graph and identify potential issues. This is a very complex and involved process, but here are a few generic most found issues.
‍
2.1) The two peaks (blue and orange) must be aligned on the same frequency, if they are not vertically aligned, then you need to tension or loosen the belts, and your gantry is most likely twisted. Refer to this guide to help you troubleshoot
2.2) Toolhead vibrations generally cause vibrations on the lines around 100-150 Hz. This can be caused by loose screws, damaged printed parts, loose wires, lack of zip ties to properly constrain the wires, etc...

3) There is an issue with the belt path- If your graph lacks one or two peaks. this most likely indicates your belts are rubbing against something somewhere on their path, this can be an Idler, Motor pulley, frame, etc...
Only one belt path is having issues on this example:

3.1) Both belts path have issues in this example:

4) Lastly, it's important to differentiate between vibrations and swinging.
Vibrations manifest in zig zag alike lines and are mostly caused by loose screws on the toolhead or the gantry. Loose idler stacks or missing shims can cause the same effect. try to locate them and fix the issue.

5) Swinging does show as smooth curves. Many times it's coming from the fact that the printer sits on a shaky table or an uneven floor. Make sure your printer can't shake.

Input ShapER (IS) (CoreXY+Hybrid)

This calibration follows the Klipper documentation steps but they are simplified for the V-Core 4.
‍
1. Click on the designated button "GENERATE SHAPER GRAPHS" inside the "SCRIPTS" window.

The printer will start moving the gantry in X and Y to determine the ringing frequencies. After this, the input shaper graphs will be available under the “machine” tab (1) , inside the “input_shaper” folder (2).

2. Look at the generated IS graphs, you should have one for the X-axis and one for the Y-axis. The example below highlights the relevant details to look for in an IS graph.

MZV (46.4 Hz, vibr:0.0%, sm~=0.09, accel<=6300)
Notice that this protocol recommends a max acceleration of 6300 mm/s2. You will need to compare this value with the one provided on the X graph and choose the lowest value, this value should be used as your external perimeter acceleration inside the slicer profile, to avoid having any visible ghosting. The external perimeter speed and acceleration on the V-Core 4 profiles are somewhat conservative, you can increase them based on your input shaper results to achieve the maximum quality VS performance.

3. Inside the “printer.cfg” go to “user overrides” and paste the following lines:

[input_shaper]
shaper_freq_x: Your_X_Frequency‍
shaper_type_x: mzv
shaper_freq_y: Your_Y_Frequency‍
shaper_type_y: mzv

4. Click "SAVE & RESTART" at the top right of the print.cfg page.

Hybrid Belts

Tuning all belts from the ground up is a nearly impossible job, so Rat Rig recommends that you first tune your CoreXY belts and only then proceed to add and tune the Y belts.The Y belts must be tuned recurring to the Input shaper graphs, slowly tensioning them equally. Starting with a low tension is important to understand that the hybrid core-xy input shaper is much more sensitive than a normal corexy setup, a very small increase of the y tension can change a perfect input shaper to the worst one you have ever seen.

1. Follow the dedicated guide one Dozuki, explaining you how to route the Y belts, Click Here.

2. Tension your Y belts, It's important to tension both belts with the same force, try to rotate both tensioner screws by the same amount. It's easy to ensure you tension both belts by the same amount by verifying if the gantry is straight, the gantry twist method can be used here, but only regulate the top Y tensioners to align the gantry. start with a low tension and run an input shaper graph.

You should be looking at achieving a clean input shaper graph.

3. Gradually increase or decrease the Y belt tension by the same amount, try 1/4 to 1/2 turn increments in the tensioner screw and repeat Step 2. This is a trial and error process so take your time and don't obsess over it, enjoy the incredible BRRR sound the machine provides.

4. You will need to re-do the gantry twist steps above as well as the belt tension calibration and Input shaper, to maximesize the machine performance.

Input ShapER (IS) (idex)

This calibration follows the Klipper documentation steps but they are simplified for the V-Core 4 Idex.
‍
1. Click on the designated button "GENERATE SHAPER GRAPHS" inside the "SCRIPTS" window.

The printer will start moving the gantry in X and Y to determine the ringing frequencies. After this, the input shaper graphs will be available under the “machine” tab, inside the “input_shaper” folder.

There will be four files, the names should be intuitive, first you can see the toolhead designation, T0 or T1, then you can see the axis designation.
T0_resonances_y_2025-02-17-163419
is a T0 Y axis input shaper graph made at 16:34 and 19seconds at 17 of february 2025.

2. Please open each of the graphs and record the values for the T0 X resonance ,T0 Y resonance and T1 X resonance and T1 Y resonance.
‍

3. Activate the Copy mode by clicking the "IDEX COPY" option on the "IDEX" window

4. Click on the "GENERATE SHAPER GRAPHS" button, just like Step 1. Now the V-Core 4 will measure the shaper ressonances in Copy mode, for both X and Y, for both toolheads, this process takes a while. Go grab a snack!

5. Activate the Mirror mode by clicking the "IDEX MIRROR" option on the "IDEX" window

6.  Click on the "GENERATE SHAPER GRAPHS" button, just like Step 1. Now the V-Core 4 will measure the shaper ressonances in Copy mode, for both X and Y, for both toolheads, this process takes a while. Go grab a snack!
‍
7.
Inside the Input shapperfolder you will find 12 Graphs, T0X, T0Y, T1X and T1Y, then you will have the copy mode graphs T0X_COPY, T0Y_COPY, T1X_COPY and T1Y_COPY, lastly you will have the Mirror mode graphs T0X_MIRROR, T0Y_MIRROR, T1X_MIRROR and T1Y_MIRROR.

8. All the results must be included in the Input shapper configuration, to do this, you will need to do an average of the T0X_COPY and T1X_COPY, this new value will be the COPY_X_AVERAGE frequency.

[gcode_macro RatOS]
variable_shaper_x_freq: [T0_X, T1_X, COPY_X_AVERAGE, MIRROR_X_AVERAGE]       
variable_shaper_y_freq: [T0_Y, T1_Y, COPY_Y_AVERAGE, MIRROR_Y_AVERAGE]           
variable_shaper_x_type: ["mzv", "mzv", "mzv", "mzv"]   
variable_shaper_y_type: ["mzv", "mzv", "mzv", "mzv"]   

Initial vaoc calibration

🛈 Learn more about the endstop calibration

▼

Ensdstop calibration

Endstop calibration is essential to ensure the nozzles are aligned as best as the hardware allows, to reduce the necessary software compensation. Poorly adjusted endstop positions can lead to errors when operating the IDEX printer.

It is important to keep in mind that the IDEX machine’s coordinates are highly sensitive. This sensitivity is not due to endstop placement or assembly alignment issues. Unlike single-head machines, which rely solely on endstop positions for location accuracy without concern for alignment between the endstop and nozzle, the IDEX machine bases its positioning on the nozzle itself. This is achieved via VAOC, which introduces a degree of potential misalignment if hotends are not assembled with precision. In the IDEX system, slight assembly variations accumulate, leading to a slight missalignment of the nozzles, a few factor may have impact on it:
1) Frame Squareness – Any deviations in the frame’s structure can affect overall alignment.
2) Gantry X Extrusion Length and Joiner Assembly – Small differences in these components directly impact the positioning of the toolheads.
3) Toolhead Assembly – Variances in toolhead assembly can add up and affect alignment.
4) Z Extrusion Twist – Any twist in the Z extrusion further contributes to positional errors.
5) Uneven belt tension.
‍
The bed margin also needs to be adjust accordingly to the new  endstop positions. This value represents the space the toolhead has to move outside of the print area.

Parking and Load position calibration

The parking position ensures the unused toolhead doesn’t ooze filament and holds its pressure correctly, staying ready to print at any time. A poorly calibrated parking position will lead to errors in klipper or poor-quality prints. These should be adjust accordingly to the new  endstop positions.
Check here how to adjust the oozeguard position, if needed.

Before we start, never, under any circumstances, use the machine or the console while the VAOC window  is open, this will make RatOS thrown an error to prevent machine damage.
‍
1. Home the machine and perform a Z-Tilt calibration.
‍
2. Run the following command:
_VAOC_RESET
followed by:
M84

‍3. Navigate to the VAOC tab, and hit start calibration.

🛈 MOVE OUT OF RANGE - ERROR when using VAOC

▼

Error when trying to use vaoc - Toolhead can't reach the camera in Y

We are sorry that you are here! Follow these steps to get the machine working:

Increase the Y movement range

Run the following command:
INCREASE_Y_MAX
Copy the output text and paste it at the bottom of your printer.cfg file

If you still get this error after, do it again. This calibration must be done at small increments.

🛈 VAOC Camera freezing. HELP!

▼

My vaoc camera keeps freezing

If your VAOC camera frequently freezes, consider the following potential causes:
‍
‍USB Connection:
Check where the camera’s USB cable is connected. Some users have reported intermittent freezing when the camera is plugged into the Waveshare USB hub.To resolve this, try connecting the camera directly to the Raspberry Pi.
‍
‍Raspberry Pi Model:
The processing power of your Raspberry Pi significantly affects the performance of the VAOC interface. Models with more memory, such as the Raspberry Pi 4B (2GB RAM), will provide a smoother experience compared to the 1GB version or the Raspberry Pi 3B.

4. T0 is automatically selected as the main toolhead, we advise flipping the camera movement right away, this makes adjustment easier, but it’s a personal preference. Measure the external diameter of your nozzle with a set of calipers, the standard phaetus nozzle is 1 mm, insert the value in the settings window.  Adjust the pixel rate so the nozzle hole matches the crosser size.

5. Adjust the Z position on the right to achieve a clear focus of the nozzle, then drag the nozzle hole to the crosser centre.

6. Click T1 and align the nozzle with the crosser.

7.
Change from T0 and T1 a two to three times to perfectly align the nozzles, it's normal if they drift a bit in the first few attempts.

8.
Once you are happy with the nozzle alignment, click on the square icon at the top left to end the VAOC.

9. Run the following command:
CALCULATE_DC_ENDSTOP

🛈 Can't focus both nozzles. HELP!

▼

If you need to adjust the Z focus between nozzles to keep them focused:

This indicates that the nozzles are at different heights. Begin by adjusting the focus for T0, then switch to T1 and determine whether the Z focus distance needs to be increased or decreased.
‍
1) If the Z focus distance needs to be lowered, the T1 nozzle should be tightened, or alternatively, the T0 nozzle should be loosened.
‍

2) If the Z focus distance needs to be increased, the T1 nozzle should be loosened, or alternatively, the T0 nozzle should be tightened.

10. Copy the output text and paste it at the bottom of your printer.cfg file

12. Run the following command:
_VAOC_RESET

13. Make a new VAOC nozzle alignment procedure by repeting steps 5, 6, 7 and 8.

Validate the calibration:
Open the ratos-variables.cfg file inside the machine tab and check the idex_xoffset value, if the value is higher than 1.0mm or lower than -1.0mm then the printer suffers from mechanical issues like a skewed gantry and/or uneven belt tensioning or belt length

Z endstop check and calibration

Both nozzles should be at the same height. This is impossible to achieve in real life, due to machining tolerances and assembly variances. Getting them as close together as possible is mandatory to ensure the best idex experience and allow for the usage of copy and mirror mode.
‍
1. Home the machine and perform a Z-Tilt calibration.
‍
2. Open the VAOC

3. Calibrate the XY offsets for T0 and T1 and hit Calibrate Z-Offset.

4. Click on the square at the top left corner to End the VAOC.

5. Navigate to the machine console and observe the Z_offset value between T0 and T1, this value should be smaller than 0.07mm.

🛈 Improve your Z offset

▼

There are some ways to achieve a smaller Z offset

PRO TIP: If your value is larger than this, you need to check if both toolhead are correctly assembled, and everything is tighten down. Please go back to step 1 and redo the testing, check if the values from different tests are consistent.
    - If the values are not consistent, it would mean there is a mechanical problem, like a loose nozzle, loose heartbreak screws, loose lead screw coupler, poorly assembled VAOC module and Z endstop, loose toolhead or hotend, etc…
   - If the values are consistent, then you need to figure out which nozzle is the highest. If the Z_offset value is positive, it means that T0 is lower than T1. If the Z_offset value is negative it means that T1 is lower than T0.
    - The easiest fix is trying to loosen and retighten both nozzles.
If this doesn’t work, you can try to lower the highest nozzle, by using a small shim in between the hotend and the toolhead plate. The small plate that holds the electrical crimps together is generally 0.2mm thick, if you have any available from your kit or toolboard kit, you may use it for this purpose, make sure to measure it before with a good set of calipers (This comes at a cost of lost mechanical strenght, this methos is only as a last resource).
‍The goal is to achieve a Z_offset lower than 0.05mm, it’s impossible to achieve a perfect Z_offset so don’t overdo it.

🛈 The Z endstop readings are unreliable. HELP!

▼

If your Z-endstop readings are unreliable:

Unreliable Z endstop measurements can result from several factors.
Below are some potential causes and areas to inspect:
‍
Toolhead-Related Issues:
If only one toolhead exhibits inconsistent readings, the following issues may be responsible:
1) A loose nozzle.
2) Accumulation of molten filament in the nozzle.
3) The Rapido hotend not being securely fastened to the mounting plate.
4) Loose screws on the MGN12C carriage.
‍
Z Endstop Assembly Issues:
1) The POM insert may be damaged or excessively tight within the VAOC body, causing binding of the Chicago bolt.
2) The Chicago bolt itself may not be properly tightened.
Carefully inspect the Z endstop assembly to ensure all components are correctly installed and functioning as intended.

⚠️ Select the IDEX machine variant at the begining of the "calibration" chapter to show the IDEX specific chapters ⚠️

Skew Calibration

Skew correction is meant to compensate for a 3D printer assembly which is not perfectly square, the software makes small changes to the toolhead movement, maintaining a perfectly square trajectory. Every detail during the frame assembly may cause a slightly twisted frame, even the screws tightness. Making sure the machine is as square as one can get by hand is very important before advancing to software skew calibration.

The V-Core 4 has a 3-point kinematic bed levelling system that helps to mask XZ and YZ skew problems. If the build was successful and all Z rails are properly aligned, the Z squareness shouldn’t be a problem, otherwise, a skew calibration should be done for all planes. In this guide we’ll only focus on the XY plane, the procedure is the same for the other axis, more information here.
‍
1. Start by downloading the Skew_correction_tool.stl. Then open it inside your slicer. If this is your first time following this guide, please follow the Slicer installation first, then get back to this step.
‍
🛈 When slicing the model, make sure the A corner is pointing to the origin of the plane.

2. Guarantee that no skew correction is running on your machine, check that variable_skew_profile is commented out in the macro configuration section. or type the command below in the terminal. For more information, click here.‍
‍
SET_SKEW CLEAR=1
The [skew_correcton] module requires 3 measurements; the length from Corner A to Corner C, the length from Corner B to Corner D, and the length from Corner A to Corner D.

Let's take the following measurements as an example:
AC= 141.15mm
BD= 140.9mm
AD= 99.65mm
‍
3. Go into the printer.cfg and add the following lines:

[gcode_macro RatOS]
variable_skew_profile: "my_skew" 

‍4. Click “save and restart” at the top right of the printer.cfg window, then paste into the console:
⚠️Replace the BOLD text with your values.⚠️
SET_SKEW XY=AC,BD,AD  
With the previous example, we have:
SET_SKEW XY=141.15,140.9,99.65
‍
Followed by:
SKEW_PROFILE SAVE="my_skew"
‍
‍5. Type:
SAVE_CONFIG‍and re-print the test, make sure AC=BD. If not, double check all measurements and start this calibration again.

6. IDEX ONLY If you are commissioning an Idex V-Core 4, you will need to performe the Initial VAOC calibration again, click here.

Operation and Slicer

Click on your machine variant to show the steps to follow.

Core XY

Hybrid

Idex

obtaining a slicer

🛈 Download the New Prusa Slicer profiles (BETA)

New prusa slicer profiles - beta

We’ve been working on new profiles for a while and we believe our release candidates are now ready. Before making these files official by integrating them into the Prusa Slicer database, we’d like to ask our user community to give them a try and let us know if you find any kinks needing to be ironed out.

Select the Machine Size and Variant that you wish to download:

300x300

Core XY
Hybrid
Idex

400x400

Core XY
Hybrid
Idex

500x500

Core XY
Hybrid
Idex

To import the new V-Core 4 Prusa Slicer profiles, follow the instructions below.
Note: You must restart Prusa Slicer after importing the profiles

There are many Slicers free to download, RatRig recommends that you use one of these three, as they have the biggest communities.
‍
‍Recommended - Prusa Slicer is a free and open-source project. It can be obtained here.
‍
SuperSlicer is a free and open-source project. It can be obtained directly from their GitHub repository.
‍
OrcaSlicer is a free and open-source project. It can be obtained directly from their GitHub repository.

‍
A Slicer takes 3D models (STL, OBJ, 3MF) and converts them into G-code instructions for 3D printers.All Rat Rig profiles available on these slicers are meant to help you get printing as fast as possible, they are not fully tuned profiles to extract the full potential of the V-Core 4, they are a solid platform to build upon!

slicer configuration

Simply choose the appropriate V-Core 4 profile for your machine variant and size. In Prusa Slicer the V-Core 4 is under "other vendors" > "RatRig", In SuperSlicer and OrcaSlicer is under "RatRig".

You can also add filament profiles, RatRig has included pre-tuned Punkfil profiles! Even if you are not using our filament, we recommend using the profiles for the same types of materials, as many factors like cooling, extrusion multiplier, and pressure advance are pre-tuned for you, they won't work as well for different brands but it's a solid starting ground:

Add your machine (Optional)

You can connect your machine directly to the slicer, allowing for a smoother workflow by sending the print job directly from the slicer software.
1) Select your machine and click on the gear next to it.
2) Click "add physical printer"
3) Define a machine name
4) Select "Klipper (via moonraker)" and insert your machine url, created during the RatOS configuration.
5) Click "Test" to ensure your machine is connected to the Slicer, you should see a "Sucess!" window, otherwise check if your machine is connected to the same wifi network as your computer.
6) Click "OK".

how to slice

Rat Rig provides predefined slicer parameters for all V-Core 4 models, which will produce optimal results in most cases. However, due to the inherent variability of 3D printing, certain parts with complex geometries may require adjustments to slicer settings to achieve the best print quality.

1. Open PrusaSlicer and import the selected STL file by dragging it into the slicer (1).
2. Next, select the print settings (2), which define parameters such as part strength, surface finish, resolution, and other relevant factors.
3. Choose the filament type (3), which sets material-specific parameters such as printing temperature and cooling power.
4. Select the machine size, variant, and nozzle size (4). Finally, click "Slice Now" (5) to generate the print file.

5. After slicing, the slicer will generate a layer-by-layer preview of the printed part. You can use the vertical toggle (6) to inspect each layer individually.
This feature helps identify potential geometry constraints that may need adjustments in the print settings. Simply drag the toggle up and down to review the layers. While this step is not required for printing, it is a useful habit as you become more familiar with slicer settings. Once satisfied, click "Export G-code" (7) to generate the print file. Then, upload it to Mainsail, and you're ready to start printing!

After finishing this guide you can print our Punkfil Mascot to see how your machine is performing, this is all the tuning you need to get started with very good results. Further tuning might be required to achieve a specific goal, other settings not approached here are not essential and can worsen the print quality if not done correctly.

Punkfil mascot downloadRatRig calibration cube download

⚠️ Select the IDEX machine variant at the begining of the "Operation and Slicer" chapter to show the IDEX specific chapters ⚠️

How the different IDEX modes work

On the Mainsail dashboard, you will find an IDEX Macros section, this is where the magic is made:

‍1. [IDEX SINGLE] Single toolhead or Dual material
To print with only one toolhead or dual material, just hit the Single IDEX button in the IDEX Macros section, this mode is selected by default when you turn on the machine. We advice to always run a VAOC calibration before each print.

2. [IDEX COPY]
To print in copy mode, just hit the COPY button in the IDEX Macro section, the toolheads will do a copy mode move to show you the machine is ready.

3. [IDEX MIRROR]
To print in mirror mode, just hit the MIRROR button in the IDEX Macro section, the toolheads will do a mirror mode move to show you the machine is ready.

4. [TOOLSHIFT CONFIG]
The toolshift configuration has all the settings you may need to tune for multi material printing. It’s mostly meant for advanced users who are interested in fine tunning toolshifts, this can be useful for all sorts of different materials, as many parameters like speed, acceleration, Z-hop, restactions, purge length, purge time can be tuned to suit your specific needs.

5. [REMAP TOOLHEADS]
Toolhead remap allows you to change the designation of the toolhead, meaning you can tell klipper T1 is T0 or T0 is T1, this can be useful if you incorrectly set the colors/material in the slicer for a dual material print, instead of re slicing the object you can just remap the toolheads. Or imagine you need to print the same g-code with the inverted colors, just remap the toolheads, no need to tinker in the slicer.

Slice dual material

As of today, the only officially supported slicer for the V-Core 4 IDEX is PrusaSlicer, we are working on supporting other slicers. Printing a dual material part is coposed of two stages, 1) VAOC preparation, 2) Slicer

First, let's prepare the machine.
The VAOC system is designed to facilitate quick and easy alignment of both nozzles. While, in theory, the nozzle offset for an IDEX machine only needs to be calibrated once, various factors can affect the offset over time. These factors include differences in hotend temperatures, nozzle types, chamber temperatures, and more.
Given its convenience, Rat Rig recommends performing an VAOC calibration before every multi-material print to ensure the highest level of accuracy and reliability.
‍
1. Always perform VAOC calibrations under the same conditions you plan to use for printing. For example, if you intend to print in an enclosed environment, ensure the machine has fully heat-soaked before starting the VAOC calibration process.

2. Click on the VAOC option on the right.

3. Click on the "Start Calibration" button

4. T0 is always selected by defuault, drag the nozzle to the crosser center. Once aligned, select tool T1 (by clicking on the square at the top left corner) and repeat the process. If necessary, adjust the Z position for optimal focus using the "Z Focus" option located on the right.

5. Switch between tools T0 and T1 2-3 times, fine-tuning the alignment position during each change. It is normal for the nozzles to deviate slightly when swapping toolheads initially. After 2–3 iterations of switching and aligning, the nozzles should maintain their positions consistently.

6. Click on the square at the top left corner of the VAOC menu to end the calibration.

7. The machine is ready to print dual color parts accurately! Let's slice the part.

Now, prepare the slicer.
8. To print a dual material part, open the model in the slicer along with the respectives parts. Please note that the slicers needs to know how to distinguish the part sections, where to use one toolhead and the other, for this reason, mostly multi part files are used for the idex, import them to the slicer as shown below. Click here to download a dual color benchy and try for yourself.

In this example we will use a charmander model off printables, it comes in two STL files, open one of them. Click here to download and try yourself.

9. Right click on top ofthe model and select "Add part" -> "Load..." then select the other STL. The two models should align perfectly.

10. On the right menu, you can select the two materials you want to print with. Then, on the lower right, you can select which body is printed with which material.

11. Click "Slice Now" to process the model, then export the G-code file. Once exported, upload it to the machine and start printing!

copy + mirror mode

1. To use copy or mirror mode, place the parts in the slicer and center them on the build plate, ensure to stay in the midle of the print area. Hit slice and upload to the machine. The machine will automaticly duplicate the sliced g-code.

2. Although you have only sliced a single part, the Mirror Mode will automatically duplicate the G-code as described above.

3. Ensure that you select the desired Mirror or Copy mode before printing. This setting can be found in the "IDEX" window within Mainsail.