Hybrid

Sanity Check

00. Before Getting started...

It’s important to get familiarized with some terms:

T0 - Toolhead
X-axis - left to right direction
Y-axis - front to back direction
‍stepper_X - Left Stepper [L]
‍stepper_Y- Right stepper [R]

Note!

At this point the hybrid steppers will be ignored as the top Y belts should only be installed later in the guide.

01. X-axis direction

Run the following command in your console:
```
M18
```
Copy
Move the toolhead manually to the middle of the build plate.
Run the following command in your console:
```
SET_CENTER_KINEMATIC_POSITION
```
Copy
Use the mainsail buttons to move the toolhead 10mm to the left and right, ensuring it is moving in the right direction.
If the X-axis is moving in the expected direction, restart klipper and you are done, please proceed to the next sanity check.
5.1. If the toolhead moved but in the wrong direction. Navigate to the printer.cfg file and locate the [stepper_x] section. You need to invert the direction pin, by adding or removing "!" in front of the "dir" pin label, as shown below.
HELP. The toolhead moved in the wrong direction.
▼
If your toolhead moved in the Y direction while commanding it to move in the X direction, it means that either the stepper motors' directions are swapped or the cable connectors are swapped between stepper L and stepper R.
‍
Move the toolhead left and right using the Mainsail controller. Observe the actual movement of the toolhead and compare it to the chart below. If your movement pattern does not match any of the suggested options, it indicates that the stepper motor connectors are swapped. In this case, please disconnect the machine from the mains power and swap the L and R stepper motor connectors on the Octopus board. Once the toolhead movement matches one of the options in the chart, you will need to invert the direction of the indicated stepper by following step 5.

If you have any questions about the stepper connections on the octopus board:
Check the wiring guide here.
Click "SAVE & RESTART" at the top right of the print.cfg page.
Repeat steps 1 to 4 to ensure the toolhead is moving in the right X direction.

02. Y-axis direction

Run the following command in your console:
```
M18
```
Copy
Move the toolhead manually to the middle of the build plate.
Run the following command in your console:
```
SET_CENTER_KINEMATIC_POSITION
```
Copy
Use the mainsail buttons to move the toolhead 10mm to the front and back, ensuring it is moving in the right direction.
If the Y-axis is moving in the expected direction, restart klipper and you are done, please proceed to the next sanity check.
5.1. If the toolhead moved but in the wrong direction. Navigate to the printer.cfg file and locate the [stepper_Y] section or [stepper_X1] section if you are building an hybrid machine. You need to invert the direction pin, by adding or removing ! in front of the "dir" pin label, as shown below.
HELP. The toolhead moved in the wrong direction.
▼
If your toolhead moved in the Y direction while commanding it to move in the X direction, it means that either the stepper motors' directions are swapped or the cable connectors are swapped between stepper L and stepper R.

Move the toolhead left and right using the Mainsail controller. Observe the actual movement of the toolhead and compare it to the chart below. If your movement pattern does not match any of the suggested options, it indicates that the stepper motor connectors are swapped. In this case, please disconnect the machine from the mains power and swap the L and R stepper motor connectors on the Octopus board.

Once the toolhead movement matches one of the options in the chart, you will need to invert the direction of the indicated stepper by following step 5. If you have any questions about the stepper connections on the octopus board: Check the wiring guide here.
Click "SAVE & RESTART" at the top right of the print.cfg page.
Repeat steps 1 to 4 to ensure the toolhead is moving in the right Y direction.

03. Z-Axis Stepper motor directions

Run the following command in your console:
```
M18
```
Copy
Lower the Z arms by 10 - 20mm by hand, rotating the lead screws slowly.
Run the following command in your console:
```
STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_z
```
Copy
Observe which lead screw moves after running the command.
Only the Z stepper motor should move. If any other stepper motor moves, please note which one it is. After mapping the tree, we will swap the stepper connectors on the Octopus board accordingly.
Run the following command in your console and take note of which Z stepper moved. Only Stepper Z1 should move.
```
STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_z1
```
Copy
Run the following command in your console and take note of which Z stepper moved. Only Stepper Z2 should move.
```
STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_z2
```
Copy
If the correct Z stepper motor moves as commanded, , please proceed to the next sanity check, as your Z-axis is ready for action. If not, refer to the notes you took earlier and swap the connectors on the Octopus board accordingly. Click here to view the Z stepper wiring diagram.
Run the following command in your console:
```
M18
```
Copy
Lower the Z arms by 10 - 20mm by hand, rotating the lead screws slowly.
Use the mainsail buttons to move the bed 10mm up and down. Carefully observe the movement of each Z arm. If any of them is moving in the wrong direction, you will need to remove the "!" before the direction pin in the printer.cfg file, as the picture below shows:

04. Endstops Check

Run the following command in your console:
```
M18
```
Copy
Move the toolhead (or toolheads in case of the idex) to the middle of the build plate by hand.
Go to the machine tab, find the endstops box at the lower right of the window. Hit the refresh button on the right and check if all endstops show as OPEN.
Manually press the endstops while hitting the refresh button, they should show TRIGGERED when pressed while refreshing. If an endstop doesn’t behave properly, it could mean a wiring problem. (Ignore the endstop Z as it represents the beacon).
Pro tip:
▼
If the machine is positioned far from your compute, manually move the toolhead until it contacts the endstop to trigger it.

05. Home Sequence

Provided that the machine has successfully passed all sanity checks, there should be no reason for the homing sequence to fail. As a standard precaution, it is recommended to keep your finger positioned above the 'Emergency Stop' button to quickly address any unexpected behavior during the process.

Run the following command:
```
BEACON_INITIAL_CALIBRATION
```
Copy

The machine will home all axis and prepare the beacon. It will home your printer and run the calibration fully
automated.

This command can throw a tolerance error, in this case just repeat it until the command gets successfully completed. For safety and peace of mind, the LED will turn on as soon as the contact system determines it has a strong enough signal for detection. It should normally turn on up to 5-10mm in advance of the metal target, allowing enough time to manually e-stop the machine if necessary.

06. Build Plate Preparation

Note:

▼

The bed heater and surface magnetic pad should not have been installed before this chapter.

It's normal to have the bed tilted after assembly. Insert "M18" on the Console, this will disable the stepper motors.
Manually adjust each lead screw by rotating it to achieve a roughly leveled bed. Precision is not required at this stage, as the machine will refine the leveling process later.
Move the toolhead to each designated Z position and make the necessary adjustments to ensure the nozzle is approximately 5mm from the bed. You may use the beacon's red light as a reference, adjusting until the light activates.
Now Home the machine and perform a Z-Tilt calibration, this can be found on the dashboard page.
Proceede by clicking on the home icon inside the "HeightMap" tab. Once the printer has homed, click calibration and provide a name for this mesh as shown. RatOS will then create an initial bed mesh.
Inspect your mesh, to get a realistic analysis please check the “scale gradient” and slide the “scale Z-max” all the way to the right. If your mesh looks flat like the image below, this chapter is compete!
If your bed mesh is not flat, and appears tilted or twisted (similar to the image below), you will need to verify the alignment and squareness of your frame.
The image below illustrates a bed mesh with a twist. Twisted meshes are a symptom of a non-squared frame. You will observe a peak or a depression on point C or D.
Identify the peak in height, indicated by the blue arrow in the bed mesh.
Adjust point C by loosening the highlighted quick connectors. (only C' and D' can be adjusted. Do not attempt to adjust A or B).
Gently tap the bottom extrusion to lower the peak.
Re-tighten the quick connectors and perfome a Z-Tilt calibration.
Run another bed mesh scan to check if the peak is resolved. If there is a depression instead of a peak, push the extrusion downward instead.
Make small adjustments in each iteration until the bed mesh is flat.
Unplug your machine from the electricity, turn the power off!
Apply the heater pad carefully, as it cannot be removed or repositioned once placed. Do not attempt to move or remove it after any part has adhered.
Peel back about one inch of the protective sheet from one side.
Align the heater pad centrally on the bottom of the aluminum bed and press down to secure the edge.
Gradually peel the protective sheet while adhering the heater pad to the bed. Use a flat plastic tool (e.g., an old credit card) to ensure full adhesion and remove any air bubbles.
Using the same method, apply the magnetic surface to the top surface of the bed and install it on the V-Core 4.
The flexplate surface may retain impurities from manufacturing, shipping or handling, so washing it with warm water and soap is recommended before the first use. Make sure you dry it with a microfiber cloth to avoid leaving residues of whatever material you may use to dry it, regular kitchen cloths or even paper towels are not recommended.

A dirty build plate will lead to adhesion issues that might be confused with first layer squish/ Z offset calibration problems. The included textured PEI Flexplate doesn't require any type of adhesive, it’s a ready-to-print surface on its own. Regularly wipe your PEI surface down with 70-91% isopropyl alcohol to ensure any grease, or other residues, that may have accumulated on it are removed. This will help increase your surface adhesion greatly.

07. Bed Wiring

After placing the bed assembly on the Z arms again, wire the bed wires as the following image shows:
1.1. Insert the bed wires through the colar on the electronics panel.
1.2. Route the bed thermistor cable as shown.
Complete the wiring connections for the bed heater, follow here.
Close the electronics enclosure using 4 M3x6mm Countersink Screws.

08. Bed Pid

PID stands for proportional integral derivative and it aims at making the heating process more efficient and consistent. Efficiency is important during heating to consume less energy, consistency is key for print quality. A badly tuned heating process looks like the graph below, where the controller can’t stabilise the temperature properly.

To perform a bed PID calibration, locate the "Calibration" window.
Click on the "PID CALIBRATE BED" button (orange square).
Select an average temperature at which you expect to print most often. A good starting point is 60ºC for PLA, 80ºC for PETG, and 110ºC for ABS/ASA. Click "SEND" and wait for the calibration to complete.
Once the calibration is finished, go to the console and type:
```
BEACON_INITIAL_CALIBRATION
```
Copy
‍‍Klipper will restart itself with the new PID values saved to the configuration.

09. Hotend + fans checks

In the "Temperatures" window. set the "Extruder" to 80ºC, and check if its thermistor reading is increasing and the 4010 hotend cooling fan is spinning.
If the hotend cooling fan doesn't turn on, you'll need to check the wiring connections and toolboard connector - more here.
Turn on the "Fan" at 40% to test if it is functioning properly (for more information on the 4028 fan, click here). You can find the fan control toggle under the "Miscellaneous" window in Mainsail.
Help. the 4028 FAN doesn't turn on.
▼
If the 4028 won't turn on, go back to the RatOS configurator, hardware selection tab and check if every component is correctly configured. This fan should be selected as a PWM 4pin fan as the image below shows:
If everything is configured correctly, you should check the wiring connections. Ensure that the 12V jumper is set correctly (here). The most likely issue is that the fan is not receiving power, possibly due to problems with the +12V and GND wires. Inspect the crimps on both the Octopus connector and the small Molex connector. You can use a multimeter to check for continuity.
Help. the 4028 FAN is stuck at 100%.
▼
If the 4028 fan is stuck at 100%, it may indicate a faulty PWM connection to the Octopus board. Inspect the crimps on the PWM wire at both the toolboard and the small Molex connector.
In the dashboard, find the calibration window. Perform a PID calibration for the hotend. Type 0 for Toolhead, then insert the temperature at wich you most expect to print at, lastly click "SEND".
We recommend: 220ºC calibration for mostly PLA prints, 240ºC calibration for mostly PETG prints and 270ºC calibration for mostly ABS or ASA prints.
Once the calibration is complete, a message will appear in the console. Click "SAVE CONFIG" in the top-right corner of the screen, and the machine will reboot with the new default values.

10. Switch to performance mode

After validating that the machine works properly, change the configuration to performance mode. This will boost your speed and increase accuracy. Ensure the electronics enclosure fan is working (it only spins when the steppers are moving).